SADDLE UP
The Modern Resurgence of Westernwear
Christian Davis
In January this year, Louis Vuitton, headed by Pharrell Williams, debuted their Men’s Fall-Winter 2024 Collection. Bootcut jeans, big belt buckles, and sandy hues strutted down the runway. If you didn't know, Western wear is back. This nostalgic Americana style has been resurgent since the late 2010s. It now blends with contemporary flair, capturing the imaginations of style-conscious consumers eager to channel their inner cowboy or cowgirl. As Western wear reemerges as a dominant force in the fashion landscape, designers and trendsetters reinvent this iconic look for the modern era.
As Manifest Destiny took hold in the American psyche, many Americans felt their lives awaited them in the West post-Civil War. However, as they arrived, they found that the thick clothing and flat shoes that benefited them in Northeastern cities would no longer serve them in the dry, hot, western climate. Western wear was developed out of utility. Cowboy boots provided traction, allowing those in the West to navigate its uneven terrain. Denim jeans offer durability, protecting ranch workers against the harsh climate and labor. Western fashion grew primarily to suit the needs of those who inhabited the region before westward expansion: Native Americans, Black people, the Spanish, and frontiersman cowboys.
Louis Vuitton’s FW24 show showcased many key elements of modern Western wear. Even though many who don cowboy boots are no longer wrangling horses in the arid plains of Oklahoma or the mountainous regions of Wyoming, they remain a staple of American Western wear. Similarly, denim still reigns supreme, with washes of all types expanding on the classic American blue jean. And we can never forget the all-important leather. However, modern westernwear is not without its 21st-century additions. Embroidery, statement belt buckles, and new textures such as flannel and suede have become central to modern takes on Western wear.
Millennials and Gen Z are drawn to the romanticized ruggedness of the American West. The revival of Western wear, just as it had in the 50s with rockabilly, the 70s and disco cowboys, and the 90s grunge, symbolizes resilience and the desire for a connection to an older version of America. Westernwear is being adapted to city life, cowboy boots are now on the streets of Brooklyn, and Los Angeles is flush with
bootcut denim. The style has also become a festival uniform as music extravaganzas such as Coachella and Burning Man adopt westernwear as their proper garb. Brands such as Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein put Western wear back on the map, even at the highest levels of fashion. Western wear reflects a timeless nostalgia and individualism that represents the very core of American society. With influences from Indigenous peoples, western wear communicates the lives of those in the American West. From New York City to Los Angeles, this cultural phenomenon's impact cannot be understated. I’m unsure when or if Western wear will ever go out of style, but I know it will always return.